John Knowles.net

FRIAR PARK

Philip Oswin Knowles
Head Gardener to Sir Frank Crisp, Friar Park, Henley on Thames - 1888 to 1919

THE FRIAR PARK, HENLEY.

The Residence of Frank Crisp, Esq.

NOTE: A lifelong Liberal, Crisp became legal adviser to the Liberal Party, was knighted in 1907 and received a baronetcy in 1913. He was an enthusiastic historian of mediaeval England and his magnificent book on Mediaeval Gardens was published posthumously in 1924.

He was also a collector of, and authority on, microscopes, serving as secretary of the Royal Microscopical Society founded in 1839 and still going strong today.

Sir Frank was a serious gardener, and became “the genial and popular ” Treasurer of the Linnean Society. He was awarded the Victoria Medal by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1919. But this was in the days when the RHS had not banned gnomes or maybe he wouldn’t have accepted it, because, Frank Crisp was a gnomaholic on a grand scale.

“This handsome little house is occupied by Mr Crisp’s steward and gardener (Mr Philip O. Knowles).” It cost £3000! Knowles was appointed when Crisp bought Friars Park and it was “his first responsible charge”. It must have been a risk to take on such an inexperienced gardener but it certainly seems to have paid off.

Some of the most picturesque and lovely views obtained on the Thames, are in the district on either side of Henley, a town known by name at least over the whole world in connection with the greatest and most fashionable of British regattas. It is not a matter of surprise, therefore, that the district contains some magnificent gardens.

The natural advantages possessed by the neighbourhood have in a large measure been utilised by the erection of country-houses, that in their turn render this beautiful Oxfordshire valley further interesting from our point of view. Thus, there is Park Place, the delightful residence of Mrs. Wilson Noble; Greenlands, the home of Mr. W. F. D. Smith, M.P.; and others.

Friar Park, the particular establishment with which for the present we are concerned, is the residence and property of Mr. Frank Crisp, the genial and popular Treasurer to the Linnean Society of London — a gentleman whose liberality is as great as his capacity and enthusiasm for work are astounding.

To reach Friar Park from the Henley railway station, you must needs turn your back upon the Thames, and walk or ride, the former preferably, through the quaint little town, and part of the way up a considerable bank. When you have come barely more than half a mile, there may be seen a carriage-drive upon your right. On a bank by the important-looking gates may be noticed some well-coloured specimens of Golden Privet, and immediately through the gates on the left is an imposing lodge — one of the prettiest from an architectural point of view that we have seen. This handsome little house is occupied by Mr. Crisp’s steward and gardener (Mr. Philip O. Knowles), who, when Mr. Crisp bought this place, came to Friar Park, eleven years ago, from Greenlands, and for his first responsible charge has had the making, under the direction of Mr. Crisp, of one of the most remarkable gardens in the country. The proprietor of Friar Park is nothing if not thorough. He is not content with any second-rate production, and if there arises a suspicion when something has been completed that the work would have been better done by another method, or that a better effect was possible, the work is most likely commenced again without hesitation. It is whispered that the house at the entrance-gates was not always as it is to-day, and that it has been twice built. Be that as it may, it should be some satisfaction to Mr. Knowles that his house is so far removed from the reproach of the jerry builder, that it was constructed at an expenditure of something like £3000.
The Mansion. But if the entrance-lodge is so remarkable, what shall we say of the mansion ? It is reached from the road by a twice-curved and ascending broad drive, which approaches the house on the south side. There are few such buildings as that at Friar Park, and if Mr. Crisp is proud of it, so ought he to be. We could not, and fortunately we need not attempt to, describe its florid architecture, which is in the late Gothic style, carried out in part stone and part brick, but delightfully relieved and adorned by skilfully-carved stone, because in our Supplementary - sheet is reproduced an excellent photograph of the building, taken by Messrs. Marsh & Son, of Henley, who have taken all the photographs illustrative of this article. From that illustration our readers may form a very good idea of the general effect, and even of the more important details of Mr. Crisp’s residence. But of the very numerous representations of friars in stone upon parts of the building, a knowledge could be obtained only by a careful inspection of the building itself, and such an inspection would not only prove to be very fascinating, but by its means, one would see reflected in the figures, and in certain remarkable instances of optical delusion that are illustrated by carved stone, the humour characteristic of the proprietor of Friar Park.

General Features of the Garden.
At the time the building of the mansion was completed, Mr. Crisp did not possess the amount of land around the site that he now owns, and this circumstance explains a number of alterations that have been made in the gardens during the past five years. At various times additional meadows have been purchased, until at this date Mr. Crisp has ninety acres surrounding his residence.
Not all of this, however, has yet been laid out as a garden, and a small part of that most recently acquired is upon the opposite side of the public road. But the garden is now, and will be when the improvements that are being made have been completed, sufficiently large, varied, and interesting to be a fitting “setting” for such a mansion. Of variety, scarcely more could be provided than Mr. Crisp’s love of completeness has already caused to be represented there.

A huge rockery, carried out in accordance with Mr. Crisp’s desires, is more than sufficient in spring to interest a sympathetic visitor for the whole of one day. A pinetum that includes about 100 varieties of Conifers has been formed ; a collection of Conifers also that have been trained and cut into endless imitative and fantastic shapes, and interspersed with an unique collection of old sun-dials from all sorts of sources. A formal Dutch flower-garden, as prim and model-like as possible, and a delightful herbaceous garden, just as homely -looking as the Dutch is cold in appearance ; bowers, arches, and wigwams, covered with Roses ; a beautiful lake, and its associate, a bog garden ; a maze that when a little older will be sufficiently puzzling for the best of us ; shady walks ; a Rhododendron-garden planted as will be described presently ; plenty of choice trees and shrubs, as specimens and as small groups, placed in positions dictated by good taste and experience ; a kitchen garden sufficient to supply the needs of the family ; hot-houses for the cultivation of fruits and plants ; and last, but not least, a series of wonderful caves that form a fitting complementary feature to the rockery. All these stamp the place with a degree of interest to the bulk of visitors which is lacking in most gentlemens’ gardens.
When making an inspection of Mr. Crisp’s garden, after passing through the gates to the drive, the visitor turns along a path to the right, along an exceptionally shady walk quite overhung with Chestnut and other trees, leading to a “root walk,” or a path lined with great roots, and near to a high bank that has been made there.

The Lake.
Presently the bog-garden comes into view, here Irises and other semi-aquatic species of plants and Ferns have been planted, but this feature will be largely extended. The bog-garden adjoins the lake (see fig. 107, p. 322), a pretty piece of water, containing an island that adds very considerably to the charms of the scene. The outlines of island and lake are informal, and the planting that has been done accentuates the points of beauty. The Bamboos will be very appropriate when they have grown to a greater size, and in a sheltered situation a group of plants of Eucalyptus Globulus have been unharmed during three winters. To-day the lake is a conspicuous and effective feature of the gardens, and it takes one by surprise to be told that it is quite of artificial make, and that upon the same site was once a private residence. The change has been brought about by the well- known firm of Messrs. Pulham & Son, of Broxbourne, who are responsible for several very artistic pieces of work at Friar Park, both with the famous Pulhamite, and in other matters relating to water and rockwork.

NOTE: The Story of Pulhamite Rockwork
Pulhamite used in the path system at Coombe Wood, Croydon (Hazelle Jackson)
Pulhamite used in the path system at Coombe Wood, Croydon
As new plants flooded into the UK in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, rockeries were all the rage in British gardens. Many were built on a grandiose scale to display rare and unusual alpine and mountain plants, both in private gardens and later in public parks. A large rockery might have mini-ravines, grottoes, waterfalls and even purpose-built caves.

Building rockwork on this scale was expensive, particularly when the rock had to be imported from elsewhere in the UK or even from abroad. So enterprising builders and landscape architects came up with a range of ingenious alternatives in the form of artificial rockwork.

One of the most successful creators and suppliers of artificial rockwork and features was the firm of James Pulham who, for over a century from the 1830s to the 1940s, designed and built rockeries, rock gardens and grottoes in parks and gardens all around the UK, using their proprietary artificial cement render, called Pulhamite.

Pulhamite took several forms but is most recognisable as a distinctive pinkish, lime-based cement. This was used by the firm from the 1830s to the 1870s to cover brick-built foundations and was worked to simulate real rocks. Great care was taken to make the rockwork realistic, even copying the local geology and including local rocks in the finished product. Pulhamite was in great demand during this period, with over 170 major projects constructed around the UK.

Pulham prided themselves on the quality of their product and ‘Durability guaranteed’ was their company slogan. This durability was to be tested to its limit in public parks during the twentieth century, when lack of maintenance allowed weeds and scrub trees to encroach on many of the features and the water was turned off on the waterfalls.

Herbaceous Flower Garden.
Near to the lake a charming flower-garden is entered, followed by another, not prim or formal ones, but gardens of herbaceous perennials, where the beds are full of Roses, Lavender, Tritomas, Lupins, and other hardy plants. Very narrow gravelled walks intersect some of these beds, and they are edged with Box, a somewhat curious feature in so charming a garden. The site was evidently at one time a fruit-garden, and some of the fruit-trees have been wisely left, for it is absurd to suppose that where usefulness exists there can be no beauty. The walks are very interesting, because of the curious manner in which they have been designed to lead the visitor unsuspectingly to certain corners and features, almost as a series of “ surprise packets.” If there is anything particularly charming, be sure you will not dis- cover its existence until you are quite upon it, for it is not intended that you should do so.

In one of the gardens just described is the iron or wire archway, illustrated in fig. 108, p. 323. The arches form a cross, with a dome in the centre, and although they were only erected about three years ago, the greater part of the frame-work is now nicely covered with Honey- suckles, Clematis montana, Roses (especially the variety William Allen Richardson, a favourite Rose of Mr. Crisp’s), and Turner’s Crimson Rambler. Our photograph was taken from the end where Crimson Rambler has been planted, and when the exceedingly vigorous plant is in flower the prodigal display of crimson bloom produces an effect not easily forgotten. Sun-dials and Clipped Conifers.

What a change there is from the garden just described to that of the old English garden, full of Conifers and other trees trained in imitative and grotesque shapes, and interspersed with old and curious sun-dials ! The latter are perhaps more remarkable than the trees, for it is doubtful if a larger collection exists. One of these bears the date 1657. Another one, apparently very old, consists of a stone slab, supported by an American eagle ; whilst a third is said to be made from a piece of old London Bridge.

The illustration on p. 325 (fig. 109), shows a few of the clipped trees, but these are not more than a fifth part of the collection. In the illustration there is a very fine specimen of a spirally-trained tree, and two representations of sheep. In the whole collection there are endless varieties of shapes, such for instance as afternoon tea-tables, peacocks, presentation cups, columns, pyramids, and ovals. There are excellent specimens of standard plants of Retinospora worked upon 5-feet high stems of Cupressus Lawsoniana. The shape of the tree thus worked resembles that of an umbrella. It is a fact that many gentlemen who have lately made new gardens have included larger or smaller collections of fancifully-cut trees, and nurserymen have received unusual demands as a result of this tendency to re-introduce into English gardens a feature that was at one time exceedingly popular, but that was subsequently the object of almost universal ridicule. But a long period must elapse before such a garden recently planted will give effects similar to those at present existing at Levens Hall or Elvaston Castle.

The Pinetum and Rhododendron Dell.
The collection of Conifers is planted on a slope to the north, and from this site there is a glorious view of the surrounding country, where the counties of Berkshire, Oxfordshire, and Buckinghamshire meet. Part of the range of the Chilterns forms a prevailing feature in this landscape, and in the nearer valley there is an old dyke that runs from Oxford, as well as a road from Henley to Oxford, which is perfectly straight for a mile of its length, and passes through an avenue of fine Elm-trees. Prom the same point of view may also be seen the cottagers’ allotments, upon a piece of ground lent by Mr. Crisp to the town of Henley for a period of fifteen years. It will be in future years that the Pinetum will be most interesting, for as yet the plants are all young, but in the one hundred or so species and varieties that have been planted there are some very choice ones, that will make the collection remarkable. We hope that the Conifers will succeed, and there is no doubt but they have been planted on the best available spot.

From the top of the pinetum there runs a “Pine- walk,” dividing this from the herbaceous garden. The path between these hardy old Pines is only about G feet wide, and the walk is near upon 200 yards long. What a glorious retreat from a midsummer’s glaring sun!

The Rhododendron-garden forms a pretty bank on one side of a dell, and the plants are succeeding admirably. We saw them when some of the choice varieties were in bloom, and the effect was gratifying. A path commences at the top of the bank, and winds backwards and forwards until the base is reached ; and as the Rhododendrons are planted on either side this path, it is possible to conveniently inspect each of the plants without traversing any part more than once. The effect of the whole garden can be seen equally well from the top or at the foot.

The Flower-garden and East Front.
There is a primly-designed flower-garden at the east front of the house, and being contiguous to the architecture of the magnificent building, there is the less reason to criticise its pronounced artificial characteristics. The geometrical flower-beds, each edged with Box, and the walks red with finely-broken bricks, may be less tasteful to some of us than the herbaceous garden already mentioned ; but as a feature merely of the whole garden, and as the means of bridging over the extremes shown by the architect and the “ freehand” gardener, this more formal style may be admired.

There are, happily, no rude inconsistencies in the present case, and nothing to mar the harmony of the view. During the summer the beds have been bright with showy, neat-habited, flowering plants, that Mr. Knowles has attended to exceedingly well. In this garden there is a very beautiful fountain carved out of Portland stone; while the east front is further decorated with two great copper cranes.

The Rockery.
The thoroughness that has characterised all the work at Friar Park is very conspicuous in the construction in so fine and complete a rockery. If the reader turns to the illustration of this on our Supplementary sheet, it may possibly be thought that it presents a somewhat unfurnished appearance. It must be remembered, however, that the Rockery has been made and planted but recently. More than this, the system of construction is a bold one, such as will give its best effect when it has existed for some years. This is no ordinary rock- garden with a path down the centre, and banks on either side; it is more like a model “Alps;” it stretches over a great space of ground, and there are represented in it mountains of greater and lesser height, valleys, mountain-passes, the stepping- stones of which may be seen in the illustration, rustic alpine bridges, overlooking quite formidable precipices ; a waterfall. The waterfall commences at the highest point in the rockery, and after winding and twisting in innumerable directions, for a moment conspicuous, then hidden for a time, at last runs into a small pool surrounded by a little greensward at the lowest point. The rockery has a range in height of from 30 to 40 feet. Then, as remarked above, the construction is bold, and not of comparatively small stones or artificial stone, that can be hidden by a season’s growth. It is made with good solid Yorkshire stones, and over 2000 tons have been brought to Friar Park from Leeds. One of these stones that weighs 6 1/2 tons is a somewhat conspicuous object, and in a rockery will remain such for some years. But the manner in which the stones have been placed — a most natural one — and the method adopted in planting, will in time bring about a fully furnished appearance, and one that would not be possible in the case of less bold construction. Fortunately a common error in the formation of rockeries has been avoided; there has been provided ample space for the plants, in which they will be able to develop into the largest size of which they are capable. The Japanese and other dwarf-growing Conifers will have a splendid effect in such a rockery as this. It is situate to the north of the mansion, and the oldest portion, v. Inch is nearest to the house, was partly or wholly the work of one of the best known firms in the country, Messrs. Backhouse & Son, of York. This firm has since supplied a large number of plants for the other parts of the rockery and for the pleasure-grounds, particulars of nearly 500 varieties being now before us. All the planting has, however, been carried out under the superintendence of Mr. Knowles, and for this work the Guildford Hardy Plant Company have been called upon to supply an immense number of plants, including all the choicest species this firm could furnish. It says something for the nurseries from whence the stock has been obtained, as it does also for the manner in which the planting has been done, that all of the species so far as our observations went, are nourishing to a surprising degree. We were struck with the evident vigour of numberless plants, and an instance may be given in the popular Edelweiss, which occurs again and again in equal condition to the plant shown in fig. 110, p. 331. The Gentianas and a considerable number of other species that are usually difficult of cultivation succeed admirably. The scale upon which the rockery has been erected, admits of the plants being cultivated in batches, so that the hardy Primulas, Thymus coccinea and T. Serpyllum. Campanulas. Tropaeolums. Veronicas, Papavers, Potentillas, Diantbus, Cheiranthus alpinus, Saponarias, and all similar species, may each be seen in batches several square feet in breadth. The collection of plants is so large, that it would serve no purpose to enumerate a portion of them in this general description. The choicest as well as the commonest species have been planted, including some of the best of the hardy Orchids. We may add, however, especially in the light of what has been said respecting the bold construction of the rockery, that situations have been found for Sweet Briars, Cistus, Polygonums, Acacia hispida, Opuntias, and quite a number of evergreen shrubs that are slow to make growth, or that never become too large for such a rockery. Much, very much more might lie said upon the plants in this rockery were there no limit to our space ; but our present task has been rather to describe the rockery itself. It should be added before passing, that there are splendid patches of one of the prettiest of the Semptivivums, S. aranoidum.

The Caves.
From speaking of the rockery it is but natural to pass to the caves, and especially as one of the entrances to these caves is from the rockery. They are the most wonderful artificial caverns we have ever seen, and they extend under part of the rockery and up to the dwelling-house.
Following one of the mountain-passes previously mentioned, one comes to a sliding iron door, amidst the most natural-looking environs, so that even the door itself, set in a dim recess, is not suspected to be other than stone. But pass through this door- way and the first cave comes into view. This is the “ Vine “ Cave, and over its roof and around the pillars is represented a Vine with leaves and fruit, as natural-looking as possible under such extra- ordinary circumstances. The berries are really of glass, and in each is an electric light, which, when turned on by the pressing of a button, has an indescribable effect upon the various and curious formations of tufa. From this chamber there are roomy passages that lead into a second cave, and again into others — the Wishing- Well cave, another containing examples of optical delusions, and the most charming of all, the Water-cave.

We shall not attempt on this occasion to describe these caves with any degree of fulness, as there are so many interesting features at Friar Park that this article has already become of greater length than was intended. Unfortunately our photographer after repeated efforts was unable to obtain a photograph that would have shown the interior of one of them. The series of caves, however, are well worth a visit from anyone who is at all interested in such a feature, and they are undoubtedly an excellent testimony to the skill of Mr. T. B. Harpham, Church Street, Edgware Road, London, their constructor.
In the Wishing- Well there are various optical delusions, and by pressing a button one can see his future wife or husband. The bewilderment and delusion effected by the display of mirrors set at various angles is perfect. Marguerite approaching the church door, followed by Faust, is the subject of a very pretty optical delusion. But the prettiest effect is that obtained in the Water-cave, and there one can take a boat and row under the earth in electrically-lighted caverns of wondrous fascination, and in several lights of extraordinary colour. Means exist for heating all these caverns with hot water when necessary, and the electric- light is provided by a generator on the place.

Concluding Items.
There is nearly a score , of glass-houses, where Peaches, Grapes, and other choice fruits are cultivated, and which contain good collections of Orchids and Cactaceous plants, besides other decorative and flowering species. All of these are cultivated in a manner creditable to Mr. Knowles, who each year has been able to show as good a batch of herbaceous Calceolarias as could be seen anywhere.
The kitchen-garden and its fruit-trees have the same satisfactory appearance.

Friar Park and its gardens is open to visitors one day each week, and we think no one would be other than delighted by a visit there. A charge of six- pence each person is made, and half the proceeds are given to the Gardeners’ Royal Benevolent Institution, and half to the Mayor of Henley, for the assistance of the local charities.

In concluding this notice of Friar Park and its gardens, we are full of appreciation of the liberality and enthusiasm that Mr. Crisp has displayed in the development of an establishment that to day promises to become a place of horticultural interest to an unusual degree, and we fervently hope that he and his gardener may have health for many years, so that the proprietor may not only see the completion of his ideas, but also enjoy the pleasure that should follow their realisation.