John Knowles.net
CHARLES WILLIAM KNOWLES
GARDENS AND GROUNDS AT BAGSHOT PARK
By Mr. C. W. KNOWLES, Head GARDENER
Bagshot Park, the country seat of Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, is pleasantly situated about midway between Windsor Castle and Aldershot. Nestling among the pines that abound in this pretty part of Surrey, Bagshot has been the occasional residence of several English monarchs, and other members of the Royal Family. The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester lived here for many years in the early part of the nineteenth century. It is supposed that the pleasure grounds were remodelled, laid out and planted by them. If that is so, Their Royal Highnesses must have been most enthusiastic horticulturists, for although planted more than a hundred years ago there are still growing many fine specimen trees and shrubs, whose luxuriance and beauty show that they were carefully selected, judiciously planted, and lovingly tended in their early days. Their harmony and grandeur has increased with time and is fully appreciated by the present royal owners. Many a specimen has been saved from becoming starved and decrepit and been given a fresh lease of life through His Royal Highness’s forethought and practical knowledge of forestry gained in more than thirty years of careful study. They have been given light and air when required by having adjacent trees or shrubs of little value | removed, and by being treated with a deep knowledge of the wants of each species which is very seldom equalled.
When HRH. The Duke of Connaught, four years before his marriage, first took up his residence here in 1875, Park and grounds had been much neglected for some considerable time. Steps were immediately taken to remodel the whole place. The old house was on low ground near the centre of the Park. This was pulled down and a site for the present mansion chosen a quarter of a mile further north.
The structure stands on an imposing eminence, and is built in red brick with white stone facings. From it charming views of the Park with its fine old trees and lake, and the spire of the village church, almost hidden among its surrounding woods, can be got. Extensive views, too, from east to west are obtained from the terrace, They are bounded in the distance by the Surrey hills to the east, and disclose an even wider prospect to the south towards Aldershot and Camberley,
The walls of the house are well clothed in evergreen climbing plants such as Garrya elliptica, Honeysuckles, Roses, Myrtles, Bignonias, Evonymus radicans, Cotoneasters, Clematis, Wistarias, Choisias and Jasminium.
On the upper terrace and parallel with the house runs a broad gravel walk 90 yards in length terminating in handsome stone steps. They descended to the grounds below at either end and are flanked with four terracotta vases filled, in Summer, with pink Ivy-leaved Geraniums. Just above the coping on the slopes of turf are narrow borders of Dutch Lavender and pink Roses, giving a very pretty effect. At the east end on the steep slope are plantations of specimum variegated Hollies in variety. On this terrace plateau, in the angles of the house at both ends are sunken flower gardens. The eastern one is in close Proximity to the dining-room, and has a clipped Yew hedge around it with openings at intervals, The beds are of simple design and are planted chiefly with varieties of Heliotrope, a favourite flower here. About half-way along the front of the house there is a Conservatory, the roof of which is well covered with a fine plant of Tacsonia exoniensis,whose long growths are allowed to hang down freely with charming effect. Streptosolen Jamesonii, Rhynchospermum, Lasiandra and Plumbago are also at home here. In the western sunk garden blue and white are the colours chosen, the plants used being white Geraniums and that most useful viola, Maggie Mott, and Ageratum. Visitors to Bagshot Park will notice that only two colours are planted in the several gardens where possible, so on this terrace all twelve vases have, in summer, pink Geraniums, whilst the eight vases in the balustrading on the semicircular terrace just below are filled with crimson, Fuchsias being the plants selected. Two separate flights of steps lead to the Italian Garden on the lower terrace.
The colours here in summer are crimson Geraniums and white. In the centre is a circular basin with a small fountain. The best varieties of Nymphza Marliacea look very happy in this small but sunny pool.
From the centre of the balustrade broad steps of dignified design and masterly construction descend to the lawn below. On either side of the steps, under the terrace wall, are herbaceous borders. The walls are covered with good forms of mauve and white Wistaria in alternate colours, the original plants having been brought from Japan by Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught in 1888. They never fail to flower in their season with the greatest possible freedom. From here a broad gravel walk at an agreeable gradient runs across the sward, It is flanked with stone-colour terracotta vases 2 feet 6 inches high, resembling huge flowerpots. They were designed at the Guild of Art Potteries, Compton, Surrey. The walk leads to the Tennis Court, of about 90 yards by 70 in extent, enclosed on three sides with clipped Yews but open to the terrace on the fourth. Around this large enclosure runs a stone slab path, 6 feet from the Yews on the inside. In the spaces between are ribbon borders of old-fashioned flowers, and to break the uniform appearance of the clipped Yews, on either side are wide open entrances to the courts, These openings are flanked by four more large terracotta pots filled with salmon pink Geraniums. The end Yews between the pots are left to grow tall and are clipped in pyramidal shape, whilst at the far corners the hedge curves outwards almost to a half-circle, and forms pretty recesses for circular garden seats. The Yew curves are allowed to grow higher than the hedge level. In the centre of the side opposite the terrace is a large semicircular recess of high Yews, with a broad border of blue and white flowers in front of it, also flanked by terracotta pots. In this bold recess and centering with the terrace stands a very ancient statue in porphyry of Athene, the Greek Goddess of Wisdom.
The addition to the grounds of these spacious tennis courts was carried out in the autumn of 1909, and was planned by Their Royal Highnesses the Crown Prince and Princess of Sweden. The design is modern and quite original, and although overlooked from the terrace the new courts are most skilfully contrived not to interfere with the view, nor to obstruct that of the terrace and mansion from the Park. East and west of the tennis court are extensive lawns of uneven surface broken at intervals by groups of Spanish Chestnuts, and, standing singly, some fine Oaks. Here, too, is to be seen the finest specimen perhaps in the country of that by
no means common conifer, Abies Firma, a Japanese species of remarkable beauty, of erect habit and with rigid leaves. It is now 40 feet high and in perfect health, and was planted in 1880 by the late Emperor Frederick when Crown Prince of Germany. Another gem near by is Abies lasiocarpa concolor, variety violacea, almost purple in colour. A path from the paved tennis lawn walk winds down into the deep spiral garden, the centre of which is marked by an old sundial. The beds on the sloping sides are filled with Tea and Polyantha Roses, with Violas between. And away by the fence, dividing park from pleasure grounds, pink China Roses are massed in hundreds, with low shrubs as a background and to screen them from rough winds.
From the eastern terrace steps a broad gravel walk leads to a cosy little diamond garden with gravel path around. At the angles are three garden seats with overhanging clipped Yew arbours shaped very much like a hood. Shelter from storm or sun can always be found in one or other of these seats. A statue of Mercury on a granite pedestal stands in the centre. Between these quaint-looking hooded seats are clipped golden Yews, which impart a charming brightness to the scene at all times of the year. The little garden is happy in its setting of shrubs and conifers, with fine Oaks and Beeches in the background, and a good specimen of the
Incense Cedar, Libocedrus decurrens, close by.
The ground to the north-west of the mansion rises considerably, presents a pleasing inequality of surface, and is enriched with judiciously disposed beds of shrubs and flowering trees on the sloping sward. Close to the house an Italian water garden is in course of construction, and will contribute much to the beauty of the surroundings. Towards the top of the slope above, and extending for about 300 yards, is an imposing turf terrace bounded on one side with magnificent specimens of clipped Retinosporas, of unusual size and in perfect health. On the other side a border of mixed shrubs, with a margin of Tritoma Uvaria near the grass, partly hides His Royal Highness’s Pinetum (on the higher ground beyond), which forms a noble background to the rest. Two broad glades above the grass terrace lead into the Pinetum, and have a fine effect from the west front of the mansion. On a knoll at the end of the further glade a superb Cedrus Atlantica rears its stately head in proud pre-eminence above all other trees. The terrace loses itself in a green ride of the adjacent wood, which, bounded by immense Rhododendrons, leads to a charming lake below.
The Pinetum mentioned above was commenced by His Royal Highness in 1880 and now contains many vigorous specimens of great beauty. The site for every tree here is selected by His Royal Highness himself. He is well acquainted with the habits of each species, and watches the development of every specimen with keen enthusiasm. The collection is ever increasing in variety and interest. Worthy of mention are Cedrus Libani, C. Atlantica, C. A. Glauca (the latter one of the very finest conifers), Wellingtonia gigantea, Psuga Douglassii, Abies grandis, A- Albertiana, A. Canadensie, A. Lesioa Ane A. Hookeriana (a great beauty of its class), Pinus excelsa , P. Notts, P. dissifora, Silver Firs, P. Nordmanniana, Picea pongess Gluica, P. insigne, P. Cembra, Cryptomeria Japonica, C. elegans, Cupressus Macrocarpa, Cedrus Deodara and C. Nootkatensis. On the lawn below there are two vigorous trees of Abies Albertiana, planted in 1885, one of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Connaught and the other by His Royal Highness Prince Leopold of Prussia.
The mansion on its north or carriage front has a spacious forecourt of gravel, and on a square of turf in the centre stands a terracotta well-head designed by Mrs. Watts, widow of the late G. F. Watts, R.A. In strong contrast to the south front, the ground here rises sharply, the slope being covered with Rhododendrons and other shrubs almost to the edge of the gravel court. A vista is left open (opposite the entrance portico) to the pine-wood beyond, and on both sides of the grass slope are borders planted in great variety, whose colourschemes are planned by Her Royal Highness Princess Patricia. They have an extremely pretty effect when seen from the house. Near the further end of this vista stands an old orangery upon a knoll. Except some old summer-houses this is almost the only relic left of Bagshot garden in the past. A very fine Cedar, towering above its surroundings near the orangery, forms a sort of terminus to mark the ends of three avenues which there meet, That on the left is of old Yews. To the right is one of Azaleas, 8 feet high, and the middle is of Rhododendrons. This latter leads down the hill to the American, or flowering shrub, garden.
Here there are many fine specimens. Rhododendron Russellianum (Bagshot variety) is 15 feet high and 20 feet through, and has always a multitude of scarlet flowers in early April. Kalmia Latifolia, nearly as large, both as single specimens and in beds. Here, too, are massive groups of several old forms of Azaleas, now seldom seen, with colours ranging from scarlet to orange, pink and white. In the centre is an old and vigorous Magnolia Tripetala (the “umbrella tree”). Magnolia Glauca as standards; Araucaria imbricata, a perfect specimen, 35 feet high ; and what is said to be one of the finest in England of that Chinese pine so seldom seen, Cunninghamia Sinensis, over 40 feet high. Pyrus Sorbus (“true service tree”), too, is of large dimensions. Purple Beech, Red Cedar, and Juniperus Virginiana 50 feet high, are among other notable trees to be seen near
by. Passing through an archway in the Rhododendrons, a path leads to the Wild Azalea Garden. Here the beds are large and very irregular, and are relieved from appearance of formality by being placed among large Oaks, Beeches and Maples.
To the south of the American Garden is a small formal rockery, and not far away an old grotto almost buried among tall Rhododendrons. Near here there is also a quaint little circular Dutch or Lily garden with a pool and fountain jet in the centre. Three approaching paths and a walk surrounding the pool are paved with red brick, and an outer circular path has a carpet of thyme growing in chinks between the bricks. On the sward between each of the three walks are Lily pools filled with good kinds of Nymphza Marliacea types. Polyantha Roses, Iris, Montbretias, Violas and Saxifragas are used with good effect in this secluded garden.
Passing under a Rose arch and by the side of many Azaleas and Rhododendrons, a path leads to Her Royal
Highness the Duchess of Connaught’s Blue Garden. A large bed in simple design enclosed with iron posts and chains on which grow white and blue climbing plants is entirely filled with flowers in various shades of blue. There are also several other smaller beds furnished with blue flowers and outside the rings are four large iron-wire baskets planted with Forget-me-nots in spring, and Heliotrope in summer. On the lawn just beyond is the Arboretum with its many fine Beeches, Oaks, Red Cedars, Leriodendron tulipifera, Silver Firs 120 feet high but fast disappearing (the old and shaky ones having to be taken down for safety’s sake), Cedrus Deodara 70 feet, C. Atlantica 80 feet (in the finest possible condition from base to summit), and Juniperus Virginiana planted more than a century ago, and still in excellent condition. And thickly scattered as they are over a lawn of somewhat undulating surface, smaller shrubs are seen to advantage among the trees.
They include Rhododendron specimens 20 feet and more through, Hollies of the best varieties (Ilex Aquifolium Ferox and Golden Queen are very fine), Magnolia Conspicua and M. Obovata, Rhus Cotinus, Camellias, and Esculus glabra, the yellow lowering Horse-Chestnut.
Close by is the Wistaria Pergola (the original plants for which were brought from Japan), and the Japanese House recently built upon a slight eminence. It is flanked on one side by a fine Cedar, and by Abies Canadensis on the other, with immense Rhododendrons everywhere around. Passing through an archway under them a path leads to another surprise, a most secluded but gorgeous nook in June. Very fine specimen Azaleas are here. Azalea Indica alba of large size has remarkable beauty and the purest white colour. From just outside this little retreat a curving pergola about 9o yards long leads towards the kitchen and fruit gardens. It is flanked with borders of old-fashioned flowers, Liliums, hardy Fuchsias, Delphiniums, Iris and Pæonies among many Erica vagans alba is used as an edging with good effect. The borders are bounded by a clipped Yew hedge on one side, with Mahonia and Berberis Aquifolia on the other.
The kitchen garden contains about six acres, two of which are enclosed with walls having fruit houses on their south sides. There are also span-roof houses and pits for plants and forcing. In the centre of the walled garden is a well-head of octagonal shape. It is encircled with pink Rambler Roses. Arches of Roses span the centre walks which cross at the well-head. Four seats with clipped Yews behind them are at each corner. The cross walks are bordered with long mixed flower-beds which are also backed with clipped Yew hedges.
The principal approach to the mansion from the village is by a long curving carriage-drive. Part of it is through an interesting avenue of Horse-Chestnuts, pink and white. The trees are planted in alternate pairs opposite each other. This pretty avenue was planted by Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess on the first anniversary of their wedding, March 13, 1880. At one end is a common Horse-Chestnut planted by the Earl of Beaconsfield. Farther on by the roadside are two Wellingtonia giganteas planted in April I 880 by the late King Edward and Queen Alexandra, then Prince and Princess of Wales. Another was planted at the same time by the late Duke of Albany when Prince Leopold. Some very fine Cornish Elms nearly 90 feet high are near by, and three magnificent Cedars planted close together are interesting, for they have grown so evenly as to look like one tree at a little distance. They are now quite 90 feet high and have developed into a noble trio. Red American Maples, (Acer colchicum rubrum) are grand specimens 60 feet in height, and a little way from here are beds of Andromeda floribunda (Lily of the Valley shrub), which often have masses of fragrant white blossom from February to May. Pink Ribes and Erica Mediterranea hybrida also make a charming bed of soft and harmonious colouring in springtime.
Through the entrance gates from the Sunningdale road a drive sweeps round to join the main carriage-road. It passes between semicircular bays of gigantic Rhododendrons with specimens of large size standing out singly on the grass by the roadside. Bagshot has for generations past been famous for its noble trees and lovely shrubs, and when the latter are in bloom the picture presented is a glorious one. Hardy Azaleas perhaps in particular are superb, and unless they have been seen· as they grow here, where they succeed so well, it is scarcely possible to form even a vague idea of the brilliant colours they are capable of developing.
Charles William Knowles
DOCUMENTS
Please check regularly for updates and a collection images coming before and after the Norfolk Gardens Trust talk.
Bagshot Park
Extract (pdf) on Bagshot Park from Royal Gardens by Cyril Ward - 1912
Article by Charles William Knowles
Duke of Gloucester at Bagshot
(pdf of an article from J.C.Loudon Gardener's Magazine on Bagshot Park under the 30 year stewardship of the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester).